Fashion/Costume Design Resources: TH351 Spring 2023

Chronicles the history of women's and men's underwear from the sixteenth century to the present, with color photographs, sketches, and historical notes for each garment.

A comprehensive catalogue of fashion terms from the mid-medieval period up to 1900

Jill Fields's engaging, imaginative, and sophisticated history of twentieth-century lingerie tours the world of women's intimate apparel and arrives at nothing less than a sweeping view of twentieth-century women's history via the undergarments they wore. Illustrated throughout and drawing on a wealth of evidence from fashion magazines, trade periodicals, costume artifacts, Hollywood films, and the records of organized labor.

Cutting a path from the Atlantic to the Pacific, the Panama Canal set a new course for the development of Central America-but at considerable cost to Panamanians. Sleuth and scholar Marixa Lasso recounts how the canal's American builders displaced 40,000 residents and erased entire towns in the guise of bringing modernity to the tropics.

Beginning in the late nineteenth century, mainstream magazines established ideal images of white female culture, while comparable African American periodicals were cast among the shadows. Noliwe M. Rooks's Ladies' Pages sheds light on the most influential African American women's magazines--Ringwood's Afro-American Journal of Fashion, Half-Century Magazine for the Colored Homemaker, Tan Confessions, Essence, and O, the Oprah Magazine--and their little-known success in shaping the lives of black women.

In Selling Style, Rob Schorman documents the fascinating and important relationship among clothing, gender roles, and cultural expectations at a significant moment in American history.

In Dressed for the Photographer, Joan Severa gives a visual analysis of the dress of middle-class Americans from the mid-to-late 19th century. Using images and writings, she shows how even economically disadvantaged Americans could wear styles within a year or so of current fashion.

In the years between 1880 and 1915, New York City and its environs underwent a tremendous demographic transformation with the arrival of millions of European immigrants, native whites from the rural countryside, and people of African descent from both the American South and the Caribbean.

Before the fashion statements of hippies, punks, or hip-hop, there was the zoot suit, a striking urban look of the World War II era that captivated the imagination. Created by poor African American men and obscure tailors, the "drape shape" was embraced by Mexican American pachucos, working-class youth, entertainers, and swing dancers, yet condemned by the U.S. government as wasteful and unpatriotic in a time of war. The fashion became notorious when it appeared to trigger violence and disorder in Los Angeles in 1943-events forever known as the "zoot suit riot." In its wake, social scientists, psychiatrists, journalists, and politicians all tried to explain the riddle of the zoot suit, transforming it into a multifaceted symbol: to some, a sign of social deviance and psychological disturbance, to others, a gesture of resistance against racial prejudice and discrimination.

Flamboyant zoot suit culture, with its ties to fashion, jazz and swing music, jitterbug and Lindy Hop dancing, unique patterns of speech, and even risqué experimentation with gender and sexuality, captivated the country's youth in the 1940s. The Power of the Zoot is the first book to give national consideration to this famous phenomenon. Providing a new history of youth culture based on rare, in-depth interviews with former zoot-suiters, Luis Alvarez explores race, region, and the politics of culture in urban America during World War II.

In From Coveralls to Zoot Suits, Elizabeth R. Escobedo explores how, as war workers and volunteers, dance hostesses and zoot suiters, respectable young ladies and rebellious daughters, these young women used wartime to exercise control over their lives in the home, workplace, and nation.

Introduction: Race and criminal justice -- Beginnings: 1900-1920 -- The LAPD and Mexican workers, 1900-1920 -- The LAPD and the revolutionaries -- The LAPD and Mexican American workers, 1920-1940 -- Theories and statistics of Mexican criminality -- Police misconduct and community protest -- Crime fighters and Zoot Suitors -- Facts and origins of the Zoot-Suit hysteria -- "More sinned against than sinning" -- The riots and their aftermath -- A statue to the unknown Zooter.

Chapter: The zoot-suit and style warfare / Stuart Cosgrove

Chapter: Zoots and zazous: anti-fashion in a time of crisis

Chronologically arranged to give brief summaries of the daily events of the 3,653 days of the decade. Includes political, cultural, scientific and economic situations throughout the world.

Each volume begins with a chronology of world events to provide a context for the American experience. Next, readers can explore American life during the decade from 12 separate perspective, including fashion

Chapter: Military -- 20th century

A one hundred year history of the Salvation Army in the United States from the time William Booth sent George Scott Railton in 1880 to 1980. Describes the spread of the Army throughout the country and it's contribution to society.

An award-winning historian surveys the astonishing cast of characters who helped turn Manhattan into the world capital of commerce, communication and entertainment

Presents fashion pages from the Sears, Roebuck, and other mail-order catalogs of the 1920s, featuring over 750 captioned illustrations of clothing and accessories for men, women, and children.

Information about crime in New York from 1900 through the 1930s.

Chapter The jazz age: fashions from World War I through the great euphoria, 1915-1929